Norton vs. Catawba: Two of America’s Native Grapes, Grown on the Dahlonega Plateau

If you have spent any time in our tasting room, you have probably heard us talk about Norton. It is our signature red, the wine we call the “queen vine” of Doghobble, and the one most guests remember long after they leave.

But there is another native American grape quietly earning its place at Doghobble that deserves the same conversation: Catawba.

These two varietals have more in common than most people realize. Both are native to the eastern United States. Both have been cultivated commercially for nearly two centuries. Both were celebrated by American winemakers long before California wine culture existed. And both fell out of fashion as the American wine industry turned toward European varieties in the twentieth century.

At Doghobble, we think that was a mistake. And we are growing both to prove it.

A Brief History of Native American Wine Grapes

Before Napa, before Sonoma, before anyone planted Cabernet Sauvignon in California, American winemakers were working with the grapes that grew here naturally.

Norton was developed in Virginia in the early 1800s by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton, a physician and amateur horticulturalist who was trying to solve the same problem every eastern winemaker faced: European grapes kept dying. They were susceptible to Pierce’s disease, to phylloxera, to the humidity and heat of the American South and Mid-Atlantic. Norton crossed native American species to create something that could actually survive and produce a quality wine.

Catawba was discovered growing wild along the Catawba River in the Carolinas around the same time and was popularized by Major John Adlum, a Washington D.C. viticulturalist who sent cuttings to winemakers across the East Coast. By the mid-1800s, Catawba was the most widely planted wine grape in the United States. Nicholas Longworth used it to produce America’s first nationally celebrated sparkling wine in Cincinnati, Ohio, which Henry Wadsworth Longfellow famously toasted in verse.

Both grapes had a genuine moment. Then the wine industry moved west, and they were largely forgotten.

We are not interested in forgetting them.

Side by Side: Norton vs. Catawba

These two grapes are different in almost every sensory dimension, which makes tasting them together one of the most educational experiences we can offer a visitor.

Norton (Cynthiana)

Species: Vitis aestivalis Color: Deep red, nearly opaque Body: Full Tannins: Medium to high, well-structured Acidity: Medium to high Primary flavors: Blackberry, dark plum, black cherry Secondary notes: Spice, earth, a hint of tobacco on aged expressions Aging potential: Excellent; Norton is one of America’s most age-worthy native reds

Norton is a bold, serious red wine. It is often compared to Cabernet Sauvignon in its structure, though it is distinctly its own thing. The fruit is dark and ripe, the tannins give it backbone and longevity, and the acidity keeps it fresh and food-friendly. It pairs exceptionally well with red meat, hard cheeses, and dishes with depth and weight.

Thomas Jefferson, who spent years failing to grow European grapes at Monticello, was reportedly struck by Norton when he finally encountered it. He understood something important: this was not a consolation prize for not being able to grow Burgundy. It was a genuinely different, genuinely excellent wine.

At Doghobble, our Norton bottle has the orange and red label. It is consistently one of our most requested wines, and we recommend starting any tasting with it if you want to understand what the Dahlonega Plateau is capable of producing.

Catawba

Species: Vitis labrusca (hybrid) Color: Pale copper to light pink Body: Light to medium Tannins: Low Acidity: Bright, lively Primary flavors: Strawberry, raspberry, peach, light citrus Secondary notes: Floral, slightly earthy, with a distinctive aromatic character Aging potential: Moderate; best enjoyed younger and fresh

Catawba is softer, brighter, and more aromatic than Norton. It is approachable in the best sense of the word: the kind of wine that draws people in who are not sure they are wine drinkers yet. The acidity is lively without being sharp. The fruit is fresh and summery. The color is beautiful, somewhere between a rose gold and a blush.

It also has a characteristic that wine professionals call “foxy,” a slightly wild, grapey aromatic note that is specific to Vitis labrusca varieties. Some people love it immediately. Others need a moment to adjust. But once you understand it as part of the grape’s personality rather than a flaw, it becomes one of the most interesting things about Catawba. It tastes like a place and a lineage, not like a formula.

What They Share

For all their differences in the glass, Norton and Catawba share the qualities that matter most to us as farmers.

Disease resistance. Both varietals evolved in the eastern United States and carry natural resistance to the fungal pressures, humidity levels, and pest populations that make growing European grapes in Georgia so difficult. We do not need to spray either of them at the rates that Vitis vinifera would require. That means healthier soil, healthier vines, and a farming practice that we can stand behind.

Adaptability to the Dahlonega Plateau. Our elevation, our rainfall patterns, our clay and loam soils: both Norton and Catawba are suited to all of it in a way that European grapes simply are not. They do not need to be coaxed or propped up. They grow here because this is where they belong.

A genuinely American story. There is something that feels right about growing grapes with this kind of history in this part of the country. Norton and Catawba were being farmed and celebrated in America before most of the famous wine regions in California existed. Reviving that tradition, and doing it on the Dahlonega Plateau, is part of what Doghobble is about.

Which One Should You Try First?

It depends on where you are starting from.

If you are a red wine drinker who reaches for bold, structured reds: start with Norton. It will feel familiar and surprising at the same time. Familiar because of its weight and depth. Surprising because it achieves that without being a Cabernet or a Merlot.

If you are newer to wine, or you tend to prefer whites, roses, or lighter reds: start with Catawba. Its brightness and approachability make it an easy entry point, and its aromatic character gives you something genuinely interesting to explore.

If you want the full picture: ask for a side-by-side flight. Tasting them together is the best way to understand what each one is doing and why growing both at Doghobble tells a more complete story than growing either one alone.

Come Taste Them for Yourself

Doghobble Wine Farm is located at 10 Roy Grindle Road, Dahlonega, GA 30533, on the Dahlonega Wine Highway, about 90 minutes north of Atlanta and 10 minutes from historic downtown Dahlonega. We are open Sunday through Thursday from 12 to 6pm and Friday through Saturday from 12 to 7pm. Walk-ins are always welcome. For groups of 6 or more, call ahead at (470) 310-0491 or email hello@doghobblevineyard.com.